Sunday, 25 November 2007

Back view

You can see from the back view that the shoulder seams are sliding to the back because of my forward shoulders. This makes the sleeves look as if they are twisted. I have this problem on all of my RTW clothes, but at least I can put it right when I make them.

Fitting the top

I will be able to wear this muslin because the fit isn't too bad, there a a couple of things that I will still alter though.
The shoulders aren't to my liking, they need to come forward a little because they are sliding towards the back ( half an inch to the front ), I was going to do a FBA but I have changed my mind, I think it will make it too big at the front. I will make the darts a little shorter ( about half an inch ) also I think I will take the sides in 1/4 inch on all sides so it will be a little bit more fitted at the sides which will make the gathering at the sides a better fit.
That is all, I like the style and it is really comfortable......

Finished top

I have finished this test top ( muslin ).

This top has elastic at the sides, I anchored the elastic at both ends first, then stretched it and sewed it on to the seam with a tricot zig zag stich. The front of the top is crossover so the front has a double layer of stretch fabric to deal with. I used a lightweight iron on interfacing an inch wide at the hemline which made the hems easier to sew without stretching, I also did this at the sleeve hems.

Neckline of top

This fabric is quite tricky to work with.......I have used a size 11 ballpoint needle and the walking foot on my machine. I used a stretch stitch for the darts and seams and for the top stitching I used a medium straight stitch and again used the walking foot.

Top and fabric

Here is the Sandra Betzina top and the fabric I am using.

This is just a test for the fit of the pattern, the fabric only cost me just under £4.00 so it is worth it not to spoil good fabric trying to get the fit right. This design of fabric is different to what I would usually buy but I thought the colours were quite pretty, if it isn't good enough to wear I will throw it away after I have taken note of the adjustments. I haven't worked on knit fabrics all that much and I know they are quite tricky and they tend stretch quite a bit when working on them. I have got a basic overlocker which I have had forever, the hems worry me a bit because I haven't got a cover stich machine, so I will just take my time and make the right decisions as to what to use to get the look I want.

Friday, 9 November 2007

Sewing and stamping

I love these stamps, they are very feminine and would be ideal for a birthday, wedding, thank you cards.......I think they are very versatile.

I have been helping Willow with her business over the last few weeks, now the rush is over and I am back to sewing again.

I have started to make a muslin for a Sandra Betzina knitted top Vogue 8151. I have lengthened the pattern by one inch and lowered the bust dart. I am wondering what is going on with the length of the shoulder seams, my measurement is 6.5 inches but the pattern shoulder seam only measures 4inches. I imagine some of the neck band is incorporated into the shoulder seam, I will find out when I have made the test garment. I haven't worked on many stretch fabrics so I will be learning a new skill with this fabric. I will post some photographs later when I am further along with the muslin.
In the meantime here are a few photographs of the cards I have been busy with.